Built on seven hills, dominated by a Moorish castle and bathed in glittering light, Lisbon in Portugal has spectacular beauty and a compelling history. It is a capital that reveals vast skies and views as far as the eye can see, a city of clattering trams, funicular railways and wrought-iron urban lifts. Its soundtrack ranges from the melancholic notes of fado to the wild rhythms of its nightlife. Grit, charisma and postcard views: in Lisbon, things to see and atmosphere to discover go hand in hand. Nothing is missing and with this itinerary you can discover what to see in Lisbon in four days.
Lisbon topped by Sao Jorge Castle ©Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
Lisbon, what to see on day one
Start the day with a ride on tram 28E: head up Rua da Conceição, near Praça do Comércio, and dismount near the Castelo de São Jorge. Dominating a hilltop position, this heavily restored fortification evokes the city's history. The castle dates back to the mid-11th century when Lisbon was ruled by the Moors and this stronghold was the heart of their alcáçova (citadel). The fortress has seen it all: crusaders in 1147, members of the royal family from the 14th to the 16th century, countless prisoners, battles, coronations and an earthquake.
After visiting the castle, stop at the Wine Bar do Castelo before exploring the charming alleys ofAlfama. Have a coffee with a view in the Largo das Portas do Sol and discover Lisbon's music at the Museu do Fado: fado was born here and this fascinating museum traces its history from its working-class roots to its conquest of international stages.
A must-see Lisbon of fortresses and historic buildings
In the afternoon, continue to the Sé de Lisboa: similar to a fortress, it is one of the symbols of Lisbon and the whole of Portugal. It was built in 1150 on the site of a mosque soon after the Christians recaptured the city from Moorish rule. In the 1930s it underwent a thorough restoration. The austere and imposing façade is contrasted by the quiet interior with ribbed vaulting, illuminated by a beautiful rose window. After so much beauty, relax with some shopping in the pedestrian streets of the Baixa. Climb to the top of the Arco da Rua Augusta for a stunning view of the centre, undoubtedly one of Lisbon's most enchanting sights.
Return to the Alfama to end the evening at the enchanting Mesa de Frades, which was originally a chapel and is now a magical place to listen to fado. The room is covered in beautiful azulejos and has only a few tables.
The cloister of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, Belem ©Greg Elms/Lonely Planet
What to visit in Lisbon, day two of the itinerary
The Lisbon tour continues to Belém to sample the famous pastries of the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, which has been delighting Lisboners since 1837 with the divine pastéis de Belém or pastéis de nata. These crumbly nests of cream-filled puff pastry are baked in the oven at 200°C to a perfect golden crust and then lightly sprinkled with cinnamon. Admire the azulejos in the vaulted rooms and devour a still-warm tartlet at the counter, trying to guess the secret ingredient.
Then visit the fantastic Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, created by the visionary imagination of Diogo de Boitaca and the gold-filled coffers of King Manuel I. Built in 1501 to celebrate Vasco da Gama's discovery of the route to the Indies and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was once inhabited by monks of the Order of St Jerónimos, whose spiritual task for four centuries was to comfort the sailors and pray for the king's soul.
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The Torre de Belém, erected on the Tagus, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and symbolises the era of geographical discoveries ©Greg Elms/Lonely Planet
Among the best-loved and most shared images of Lisbon, the Torre de Belém, erected on the Tagus, is number one: a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it symbolises the era of geographical discoveries. Take a breath and climb the narrow spiral staircase for a sublime view of Belém and the river. Also worth seeing in Lisbon is the modern art collection of the Museu Coleção Berardo and have a later lunch than usual at the Enoteca de Belém.
Dedicate the afternoon to Belém's other interesting museums, including the Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia and then treat yourself to an aperitif at A Margem by the river.
Head back to the centre for a fabulous dinner at 100 Maneiras, where all courses are a surprise, and then take in the nightlife in Bairro Alto. End the evening in the Cais do Sodré district, enjoying the excellent cocktails and atmosphere of Pensão Amor.
The fascinating ruins of the Convento do Carmo ©Greg Elms/Lonely Planet
Day three, what to do in Lisbon between shopping and exploring
Spend the morning among the luxurious shop windows and elegant cafés of Chiado. You'll find beautiful souvenirs and gift ideas at A Vida Portuguesa and Apaixonarte, then visit the fascinating ruins of the Convento do Carmo, or what remains after the terrible 1755 earthquake. An ethereal silhouette rising above the city, it was founded in 1389 and largely collapsed during the earthquake. Similar to a skeleton, the ruined arches and pillars are now completely exposed to the elements. When the earthquake struck, the Gothic nave collapsed on the faithful. The nineteenth-century taste for romantic ruins prevented its restoration and it was later decided to set up the current archaeological museum.
Have lunch at the formidable Bairro de Avillez, the latest creation of José Avillez, one of Portugal's most famous chefs - Michelin-starred - who with this 'neighbourhood' has realised his dream of bringing together different culinary spaces in one place, from traditional tavern to avant-garde gourmet cabaret.
For the afternoon, book a guided walk, a street-art tour or head to the ultra-modern Parque das Nações for a ride on the Teleférico or a visit to the Oceanário.
In the evening, ask for a table with a view at Chapitô à Mesa and after dinner hit the dance floor at Lux-Frágil, a club with one of Europe's best sound systems.
Shopping at LX Factory, a huge 19th-century industrial complex ©Salvator Barki/Getty Images
Visit Lisbon in 4 days, mission accomplished
Start the fourth day with a visit to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, home to one of Lisbon's best art collections. Situated overlooking the river, this splendid 17th century palace, once the residence of the Counts of Alvor, is a worthy setting for Lisbon's most important collection of ancient art. Meissen porcelain, Portuguese sculptures, Beauvais tapestries, Ming porcelain, Baroque silverware and Japanese screens will take you on a journey through painting, sculpture and decorative arts from the Middle Ages to the 19th century.
Then move on to the Museu do Oriente for a look at the treasures of Asia. Browse the shops and premises of the LX Factory, a huge 19th-century industrial complex where abandoned warehouses have been transformed into ateliers, art galleries, workshops and graphic and design studios. It houses a rustic café, a bookshop, various restaurants, original shops and cultural spaces. A dynamic calendar of events is presented each month, including concerts, film screenings, fashion shows and art exhibitions. On weekend evenings there are dance parties, frequented by those who enjoy art and evenings spent on the dance floor.
In the afternoons, explore Baixa: stroll through Praça do Comércio, visit the Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros and the Lisbon Story Centre. Treat yourself to a seafood dinner at Solar dos Presuntos and stop for a cocktail at a Barrio Alto venue such as O Bom O Mau and O Vilão, or the rooftop terrace at Park.
